Shop the best!

Once you enter the market for a somewhat expensive item like image stabilized binoculars its important to not only read reviews but to make sure you can get the best deal possible. Since I’ve literally shopped an most optics stores I thought I let you know those I like best to save you some time shopping around. Please use my links if you can, it helps me keep the lights on here! :)

My favorite Binocular stores online

My #1 Site – Binoculars.com
I end up at this site almost once a day when I ‘m shopping for a new pair of binoculars, and even when I’m not shopping I’m still there almost once a week! Their selection is much better than most optics sites, pricing is often great, and I really like the product photos better than other sites.

Amazon.com’s Binoculars
Not quite my favorite place to shop but you just can’t beat all the reviews they have on almost every pair of binoculars available. I often check reviews at Amazon, then go to Binoculars.com to buy. At times I do buy from Amazon since I can pick up other items at the same time.

The ABCs of binocular terminology

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

ANGLE OF VIEW

Measures the width of a view in degrees, (see field of view).

Back to top

B

COATINGS

As with camera lenses, coatings reduce light loss (and flare) caused by reflection of light from a glass-to-air surface. This can take place as easily within the barrel of the binocular as from the surface of the Objective. Good coatings increase light transmission and contrast. They cannot be identified by appearance or apparent color. As a general guide:

Coated Optics

– one or more of one or more surfaces or lenses coated. Light loss up to 35%.

Fully Coated

– all air-to-glass surfaces are coated. Light loss up to 17%.

Multi-Coated

– one or more of one or more surfaces or lenses coated with multiple layers of chemical film. Light loss up to 11%.

Fully Multi-Coated

– all air-to-glass surfaces have multiple layers of chemical film. Light loss up to 5%.

(Note: These figures are not absolute and should be considered as guides only).

COLLIMATION

The mechanical alignment of the optical elements in a binocular. Both right and left hand optical axis must have proper orientation and location within the binocular barrel and must be parallel to each other in a quality optical system. High quality mechanical construction will ensure that the lenses and prism blocks maintain their correct alignment and provide years of comfortable viewing without headaches or eyestrain.

Back to top

E

EXIT PUPIL

Measured in mm, this is the diameter of the beam of light leaving the binocular eyepiece, and determines how much light the eyes receive. Larger exit pupils provides brighter images. To calculate Exit Pupil, divide the objective size by the power. For example, the exit pupil of a 7×42 binocular is 42 divided by 7, or 6mm. The square of the Exit Pupil is the geometrical luminosity factor. Since the pupil of the human eye can shrink to a diameter of 2mm to 4mm on a sunny day, this specification is of greater import for low-illumination use.

EYE RELIEF

Measured in mm, it is the actual distance, your eyes could be from the surface, of the eyepiece and still see the full image.

Back to top

F

FIELD OF VIEW

Is the width of the area (in degrees) that can be seen at a given distance (usually measured at 1000 yds). Sometimes called, “Angular Field”, a large field of view permits you to see a large area at one time, and it also enables you to follow a moving subject with ease. The smaller the magnification the greater the field of view.

Back to top

I

INTERPUPILLARY DISTANCE

The distance between the center of the exit pupils. Usually adjustable.

Back to top

M

MAGNIFICATION

Also called “Power”, this number reflects how many times the image is magnified. For example, through a 10x binocular the image will appear 10 times larger than with an unaided eye, an 8x will magnify only 8 times.With 8x power, an object which is 800 feet away will appear as if it was only 100 feet away.

MONOCULAR

Basically 1/2 a binocular with the center hinge removed. Primarily valued for their light weight and compact size.

Back to top

N

NIGHT VISION

Light amplification (up to 35,000x) permitting the viewer to see throught the binoculars or monocular in near total darkness.

Back to top

O

OBJECTIVE LENS

The larger, or front lenses. The Objective Lens Diameter is the size of the outer (front) lens in millimeters. A 7×35 binocular has a 35mm objective lens. This helps determine how much light enters the binocular, although image brightness still depends on the size of the exit pupil. Doubling the size of the Objectives quadruples the light gathering capacity of the binoculars; for example, a 7×50 binocular has twice the light gathering capability of a 7×35 binocular and four times the light gathering ability of a 7×25 binocular (all else remaining equal).

OPERA GLASSES

Small, light-weight, low-power binoculars, often decorated with faux mother-of-pearl. These binoculars are usually available in 2.5x to 5x, and are often simple lenses cemented into the barrels with no prisms at all.

Back to top

P

PRISM TYPE (ROOF or PORRO)

Erecting prisms are used in all binoculars to correct for inverted (upside down) images. Two types of prisms are common — porro or roof. In general, porro prisms yield greater contrast, but many roof prisms have a phase-shift coating, which can provide similar contrast. Porro prisms are available in two standard types: BK-7 and BaK-4. The glass density of BaK-4 provides superior performance. One modification of the Porro design is the Reverse Porro Prism, commonly used in compact binoculars to reduce overall size. Roof prisms are lighter in weight, more compact, and often more expensive. They can be readily identified because the barrel appears to be a straight tube. Porro prisms set the objectives further apart and may offer superior stereo imaging. Also, BaK-4 and roof prisms have a perfectly round exit pupil, whereas BK-7 prisms show a grey area on the outer fringe of the circle.

Back to top

R

RELATIVE BRIGHTNESS (ALSO CALLED LUMINOSITY FACTOR)

Indicates the size of the light shaft that reaches the eyes, generally a brightness of up to 10 (approx) is good for daytime use, while from 10 -16 (approx) will be good at dusk or on a cloudy day with low contrast, and 25-50 (approx) for night time.

Back to top

S

SPOTTING SCOPE

A high power monocular, often with interchangeable eyepieces which provide varied magnification, field or view, etc.

Back to top

T

TWILIGHT FACTOR

A numerical index, indicating a binoculars light-gathering ability, a factor of at least “16″ is important for bird watching and hunting early in the morning, late in the evening or surveillance in dim light. A binocular with a high twilight factor will gather more light to make a dim area appear brighter.

Additional features to consider when buying binoculars include:

1. How the binoculars focus (one center adjustment versus separate adjustments for each barrel). Some models are “focus-free.”
2. Whether the binoculars allow you to fine-tune the focus of one eye (also called diopter setting or diopter control) so that both eyes see an optimally sharp image.
3. Armour — protective coating (usually rubber) around the outside of the barrels.
4. Waterproofing. True waterproof binoculars are Nitrogen purged, ie., filled with inert nitrogen gas internally to make them impervious to salt water, internal fogging, etc. Terms such as fog-proof, rain-proof, or splash-proof do not mean the binoculars are truly waterproof.
5. Zoom — as with camera lenses, some binoculars offer variable magnification. Often these are larger, heavier and more costly than non-zoom models.
6. Close-focus distance. The nearest an object can be to the viewer and still be rendered in focus.
7. Image Stabilization — microprocessor controlled vari-angle prism which continually adjusts to maintain a steady image and correct for hand shake or vibration.
8. As with any lens system, binoculars can be subject to the same types of distortion as camera lenses. These include pin-cushion, barrel, comma, chromatic aberration, etc. Manufacturers utilize the same types of corrections to overcome distortion and some binocular models may include features like aspheric elements, low-dispersion glass, field flattener elements, and so forth.
9. With these optics it is especially important to remember that image brightness is not the only consideration. It is possible to have a bright image, but one lacking clarity, contrast, or color saturation. When making a selection, keep your particular needs and intended use in mind. Binoculars suitable for day boating may prove less suitable for star-gazing, while optics optimized for low light use, may not be the best choice for naturalists.

Blur be gone - thanks to image stabilization technology

Image stabilizing (IS) binoculars offer the advantage of a clearer, sharper image with less work and more flexibility. However, trade-offs need to be considered as this type offers its own unique characteristics. Here are the pros and cons so you can choose the best set for you.

Pros

The inescapable reality of using binoculars is that simply holding them by hand will lead to some degree of shaking or movement. This is particularly true if you are using them for any period of time whether stargazing, watching cars at the track, or following your favorite sports game. The result is smearing of your image view.

When binoculars are stabilized, they result in sharper images, better clarity, and clearer contrast. While mounting equipment is available it can be heavy and awkward, along with restricting your binoculars to being mounted on the ground. Image stabilizing binoculars offer better quality without a lot of added weight and fussing.

Beyond image quality, even the slightest waver in your regular binoculars can lead to eyestrain and headaches. Movement causes your eyes to strain, and just like a low resolution computer, a lot of time staring at that image will cause significant discomfort. If you intend to use your set for long periods it will be worth the effort to choose image stabilizers simply to ensure greatest comfort.

Because quality is so improved, image stabilizing binoculars offer a significant difference even for a less powerful set. For example, Canon offers excellent binoculars for car racing. Magnification of even 8x works beautifully, as it allows for a wider field of view (FOV). This wider FOV means you can keep your eye on the cars as they move across the track, while the magnification is still strong enough to put you right in the action. With image stabilization, images remain crisp during the entire race; your car wins and you catch every moment.

Cons

Image stabilization requires more parts to be added to your binoculars. The trade-off is in weight and durability – a slightly heavier set of binoculars may need extra support for carrying, and may not withstand as much bumping and bruising as your regular set. That said, there are models with more armor and protection available which may be worth the added expense for your needs.

Be sure to spend some time handling the binoculars in-store; you will find that various sets have different ergonomics and balance, which can compensate for the added weight with repeated use.

The initial investment for IS binoculars is obviously higher. Added machinery and technology, particularly as these binoculars are rather new, will undoubtedly increase the cost. However, there is a wide range to choose from and you can certainly balance features with price.

Furthermore, batteries are required for image stabilization so be sure to check your binocular requirements and keep some spares. In most cases you will need to hold down a stabilization button to activate the feature, which is generally rather easy to do and helps keep battery use as low as possible.

IS binoculars will work very well even when batteries are dead; although image stabilization won’t be available, the binoculars are still functional and perform quite well. Consider investing in high quality rechargeable batteries and a charger for frequent use.

While image stabilizing binoculars inevitably incur a heavier investment in weight and expense, the improvement to quality and comfort are very high. If you are investing in an Alaskan trip or season tickets for football, you may find taking it the extra mile by choosing IS binoculars will absolutely maximize your experience. For long-term use these can’t be beat both for high image quality and premium comfort.

Binoculars aren't as complicated as they seem

Galilean binoculars are the simplest, and each use four lenses – two convex and two concave. Although these lenses automatically provide an upright image, only low magnification is possible, along with a very narrow view. Therefore this design is only used for inexpensive binoculars along with opera and theater glasses.

More modern binoculars are designed using prisms in conjunction with lenses. In this case the lenses offer a better field of view and higher magnification, but result in an upside down image. Consequently prisms are used to set the image upright again for viewing.

Porro prism binoculars are created by placing prisms in a double Z-shape. This prism placement requires more area, resulting in wider binoculars, and allowing for bigger lenses and thus, better light collection. After time the prisms may need to be re-calibrated to ensure they work effectively, however this design is less expensive than Roof prism binoculars, and more popular.

Roof prism binoculars are created by using shallow, small prisms and result in more compact binoculars. Their smaller size makes them a more durable option for hunting or as a spare pair to stay in your glove compartment. They can also be lighter in weight and easier to hold for long periods. Consider them when optimum quality is needed along with easy carrying.

Roof prisms are collimated more tightly and securely when they are produced, so they tend to take rougher handling better without the need to be recalibrated. However, these prisms require special coatings to use light effectively, including phase coating, aluminum coating, silver coating, and dielectric coating.

What do all those numbers mean?

Ultimately Porro prisms and Roof prisms can offer comparable images. In fact, the following details define quality for both types of binoculars.

Magnification and Objective Lens Diameter:

These are always described together using a pair of numbers such as “7×50”. When described this way, the first number refers to the magnification amount, and the second to the diameter of the objective lens. For example, “7×50” means that images are magnified 7x, and the objective lenses have a diameter of 50mm. These measurements are of greatest importance to image quality so need to be considered carefully.

Higher magnification will allow you to see objects further away, but will narrow your field of view. So you’ll see further, but for objects close to you, you’ll be restricted to looking at a smaller area and refocusing if that object is moving. A lower magnification from about 7x to 10x is fine most of the time, whereas magnifications of 20x to 30x are necessary for astronomy.

Larger lens diameter allows more light to enter the binoculars and reach your eye. While they increase weight significantly, bigger lenses are best for night-time viewing, hunting at dusk or dawn when game move, and even low-light environments such as heavily wooded forests.

Field of View (FOV):

Refers to the area visible to you as you use your binoculars. The number given tells you how big an area you can see when viewing objects 1000 yards away. For example, a FOV of 372 ft. means you will see an area of 372 ft. 1000 yards away from you. Wide angle lenses are available to increase that FOV for game hunters and sports fanatics.

Eye Relief:

This is the minimum distance at which you must hold the eyepieces away from you. This is important especially for those who wear eyeglasses, so make sure to test this in store to find a set of binoculars that are comfortable for you to hold to your eyes.

Exit Pupil:

Is the virtual opening at the center of each lens through which light can move on its journey through the binoculars. Optimally this exit pupil needs to closely match your own pupil, as light that travels outside yours is lost. Therefore this becomes important when you use binoculars at night – your pupils dilate to take in more light, so a bigger exit pupil of about 7mm is ideal for astronomy. However, during the day your pupil will be about 2.5mm.

Calculate the exit pupil by dividing lens diameter by magnification – so binoculars at 7×50 have a lens pupil of about 7mm and are good at night. Binoculars at 20×50 not only offer more magnification but a smaller exit pupil of 2.5mm which is ideal for bright daylight use.

What are coated lenses?

Anti-reflective coatings can make a huge difference in image quality by preserving light as it moves through the binoculars and to your eyes. Magnesium fluoride is most commonly used for either prism type, and binoculars maybe listed anywhere from coated (at least one surface is coated with anti-reflective material) through multi-coated (two or more surfaces are coated) and on to fully multi-coated.

Other coatings such as phase coating, aluminum coating, silver coating, and dielectric coating are required for Roof prism binoculars.

A Leica spotting scope rigged up for Digiscoping

Note: This post  has little to do with binoculars! :)

Like many brilliant innovations, the origins of digiscoping are part fact and part legend. The most common and generally accepted history ascribes the discovery of the technique to Lawrence Poh of Malaysia who, while out birding one day, sighted a rare hawk perched too high in a tree for his 35mm camera to be able to photograph effectively. Thus, in a moment of equal parts desperation and inspiration, he held the lens of his recently acquired pocket digital camera up behind the eyepiece of his spotting scope, used the viewing screen of the camera to verify the image, and took the picture. Despite all reasonable expectations of what was then commonly understood about photography, it worked.

For more than a decade now, the popularity of digiscoping has been rising rapidly. Using a technique that is essentially unchanged from Mr. Poh’s original method—steadying the lens of a digital camera behind the lens of a spotting scope, using the viewing screen to check the focus, and snapping the image—tens of thousands of both amateur and professional photographers have discovered the benefits as well as the enjoyment of this relatively easy-to-learn skill. But whereas the early practitioners primarily made their own devices to help them steady their cameras behind the lenses of their scopes, today, many optics firms produce a range of innovative accessories to help digiscopers achieve results that can rival, and even surpass, those of conventional digital camera photography.

The key to digiscoping is first and foremost stability. After all, even without using a camera, simply viewing a subject using a spotting scope at magnification levels as high as 50x requires keeping the scope very steady to prevent a “bouncy” image. Add to this the fact that the camera’s own zoom mechanism is often additionally used to magnify the image displayed in the spotting scope’s eyepiece before it is recorded into the camera’s memory as a still image, and preventing even slight movement of the scope and attached camera is of the utmost importance as it means the difference between a sharp or blurred final result. Therefore, a sturdy tripod and a camera adapter are necessities for capturing good digiscoped images.

For this reason, many optics firms have developed bracketing or coupling devices to help digiscopers attach and secure their digital cameras, usually small, pocket-sized models, to their spotting scope body, or the scope’s eyepiece itself. These can range from simple cuff-style adapters that remain attached to the camera and slide easily on to and off from the scope’s eyepiece, to sophisticated bracket-style frames that allow the camera to remain attached to the scope and pivot or swing to allow the scope to be used either directly or as a digiscoping “rig” (as a spotting scope and camera assembly is commonly called).

In addition to these styles, there are also converter attachments (also called converter lenses) that allow a larger format camera body, like a DSLR, to be attached directly to a spotting scope body without the use of a spotting scope eyepiece or a camera lens. Originally used with SLR film cameras, these converter attachments can offer DSLR camera users the equivalent of a 600mm, 850mm, or even 1000mm lens for a fraction of the price of what such a camera lens would cost by itself.

When it comes to digiscoping, few optics companies can compare to Swarovski in terms of offering a variety of equipment options that all incorporate technical excellence with ease of use. With four different magnesium-bodied, HD lens spotting scopes models capable of being combined with three different eyepieces, including a true 30x Wide and their new 25-50x Wide Zoom model, Swarovski offers just about every combination of scope and eyepiece any digiscoper could want. In addition to this, they also offer three different digiscoping camera adapters that range from the simple cuff design of their DCA model, to their latest universal UCA adapter capable of attaching not only pocket digital cameras to the scope, but full-size DSLR cameras, and even smaller digital video cameras as well.

And speaking of DSLR, Swarovski also offers an adapter that allows DSLR users to connect their camera body directly to the spotting scope body in order to produce the equivalent of an 800mm camera lens. Finally, for those who might want to do a little digiscoping through binoculars, the Swarovski Snap Shot Camera Adapter allows Swarovski EL binoculars users to position and steady a wide variety of pocket digital cameras up to the binoculars’ eyepiece in order to capture a quick, optically magnified image.

Kowa, quite possibly the first optics firm to incorporate Magnesium Fluorite into their spotting scope lens systems in order to offer their users superior image color management, is another leader in digiscoping equipment. Digiscopers using Kowa optics have quite an assortment of camera attachment options available to them. The brand offers three different accessory assortments for most styles of pocket digital cameras, as well as three different conversion adapters for DSLR style cameras, including one with a variable magnification feature.

Leica, maker of some of the world’s most famous cameras, is also a significant supplier of state-of-the-art digiscoping equipment. Being one of only two optics firms to offer all elements of a digiscoping rig from camera to spotting scope, Leica has been in the game since the beginning. Many of the earliest stories of how digiscoping began, including that of Mr. Poh, involve a Leica spotting scope. Having recently released two dynamic spotting scope models, the Leica APO-Televid 65 and APO-Televid 82, the company has also developed the cuff-style Leica D-LUX 4 digiscoping adapter to connect the Leica D-LUX 4 camera with the Leica 25-50 WW ASPH eyepiece. For those who wish to use another model of camera with the Leica APO-Televid spotting scopes, the Leica bracket-style Digital Adapter 3 makes the use of most pocket digital cameras a snap.

Another famous camera firm offering a fine selection of digiscoping equipment is Nikon. Offering camera adapters for all four of their spotting scope model families, including their new EDG Fieldscope models, Nikon also offers digiscopers the opportunity to employ the same brand of both camera and spotting scope equipment. With three different models of camera adapter as well as two SLR/DSLR converters to that allow direct connection of a Nikon camera body to one of their Fieldscope models, Nikon truly offers a selection of equipment that will help digiscopers of all levels to realize their photographic aspirations.

When it comes to innovation, few can compare with the designers at Zeiss. One of the few optics firms to offer an integrated eyepiece-camera combination unit, the DC4 Digital Camera Eyepiece for the Victory FL Diascope, and the only completely integrated camera-spotting scope combination, the PhotoScope 85 T FL 7MP Digital Camera Spotting Scope, Zeiss is truly pushing the technological envelope when it comes to advancements in digiscoping. For those looking for something a little more basic, they also offer their classic Diascope Quick Digital Camera Adapter II that allows the use of most any pocket digital camera with many of their fine Diascope spotting scope models.

As with many techniques that are fairly simple to learn, the secret to getting the best results is the amount of time and effort invested in practicing. Even the best digiscoping rig in the world won’t guarantee professional-quality results if the user isn’t familiar with how it works, and has spent little time in the field learning the subtleties of the process.

Using a digital camera to take a picture through the eyepiece lens of a spotting scope is as much an art as a science. Pushing the shutter button is only the final step. What comes before, such as learning to judge the conditions, gauging the light, taking advantage of the features of the particular camera being used, and a host of other things that can best be learned through experimentation, as Mr. Poh did over a decade ago, are the largest part of the digiscoping journey.